Family time...

Mum and dad have been visiting for the last week and a bit, keeping me entertained while I'm on my mid-semester vacation. Although they're not here for that long, we've managed to do a lot of different things, including:

* Lazing around by the pool at a Hotel by the Dead Sea with my "adopted" Arad family (pictured)- very needed after a long trip from New Zealand via Bangkok....

* Two days in the area near Haifa, where we visited an artist's village called Ein Hod, also The Atlit Detention Camp, where Jewish refugees were put by the British during the British Mandate period (prior to 1948), swam at Habonim beach, met friends in Haifa for dinner, and had a quick peer at the famous Bahai Gardens


* An afternoon in Safed, an ancient mountaintop town which gave birth to much of the mystical Kabbalistic tradition

* Driving up the Hula valley - highlight, the Naot outlet factory shop, where I bought some very nice pink sandals...

* Sunset and Dinner on the beautiful Golan Heights with our friends Razia and Ekel

* Walking around the excavated remains of the ancient city of Bet She'an, followed by a wander through the somewhat-touristy-yet-actually-impressive scale models of Mini Israel (Their slogan is brilliant :"See it all....see it SMALL!")



* Wandering around the Old City of Jerusalem on foot, and touring around the whole city on a sightseeing bus

* Catching up with friends JoEllen and Shoshanna in Jerusalem, eating well, and torturing my poor dad with the endless quest for the perfect pair of earrings (which requires us to look in every shop, of course....)

* Drinking endless cups of delicious Mint Tea

Mum and dad only have a couple more days here, and tomorrow we're off to Tel Aviv. It's been very fun having them here to visit, and I acknowledged the importance of their long long journey by snubbing the Israeli Prime Minister in order to hang with them instead! (True story). In two days' time, boo hoo, they have to return to New Zealand, and I will be moving into an apartment on King George St. Here's hoping (for my sake and yours) that I'll have a good internizzle situation in my new home....

Last week in Arad... :'(

I can hardly believe it, but I only have 5 more days until the end of the first half of WUJS. This means only 5 more days of full-time living in Arad! I have quite mixed feelings about it; on one hand, I am VERY excited about moving to Tel Aviv to start my PSJ Internship (this will be the subject of future postings), and to live a little more in the "real world" of Israel. On the other hand, I have grown very attached to my little desert hometown, and the WUJS routine, and there are many things I am going to miss....

Anyway, this week has been yet another busy one. I had two fieldtrip days that I really want to write about:

TUESDAY
This week, a theme of our learning has been "The Holocaust in Israeli Consciousness". Like many people, until now I have always associated Holocaust memorialisation in Israel with Yad Vashem, which I visited in 2001 on Birthright. While I think Yad Vashem is an excellent and important place for all visitors to Israel to see, one can't deny that it is a deeply harrowing experience to spend a day there. This week, with WUJS, we travelled not to Yad Vashem but to a place Massuah up near Netanya. I'd not heard of this place before. As their website explains,

Massuah considers education the most significant way to commemorate the victims of the Holocaust. Its educational approach raises fundamental questions about the essence of humanity, the people and the state, education, and culture, which lead to issues that are relevant to the world in which today’s young people live.

We had a few discussion workshops with the Massuah educators, and we also visited a couple of exhibitions at their museum, all of which were thought-provoking. The most remarkable event of the day, however, was our session with a Holocaust survivor, Shlomo Perl, whose unbelievable story was turned into a well-known film, Europa, Europa!. To briefly summarise, Shlomo survived the Holocaust by pretending to be an ethnic German, and incredibly found himself enlisted into a prestigious school for the elite Hitler youth! For four years he lived with a bizarre dual identity - Josef the German Hitler Youth, and Shlomo, the hidden Jewish boy that he was, worrying that he could be discovered at any moment. I hadn't seen the film before, so this story was completely new to me. Shlomo told us a little bit about what had happened to him, and then we watched the second half of the film with him. All I can say is, if you haven't seen this film, go and lay your hands on a copy ASAP.

WEDNESDAY
On Wednesday we had a whole-day PSJ seminar about civil rights in Israel. For this, we visited three different organisations in Jerusalem. First, the Israel Religious Action Centre. Next, Open House which is a community centre for gay, lesbian, transgender, and bisexual people in Jerusalem. This was a timely visit, as Open House has been at the centre of a significant controversy in Jerusalem for the last few years. Namely, they are the organisers of the annual Gay Pride parade which has the Orthodox religious leaders of Jerusalem up in arms. We watched a DVD about last year's attempt to have the parade - which was fought bitterly against by some members of the ultra-orthodox community and religious members of the city council, to the point that the police were too worried about security and forced the parade to be cancelled and replaced by a rally in a local stadium. What I saw in the DVD - the intolerant, cold-hearted, cruel way in which the gay and lesbian community was treated by the parade's opponents - the death threats, the inhuman things that were said - convinced me how important it was that this year's parade should go ahead. Some of the most disturbing scenes were of an anti-parade rabbi going into the West Bank to meet with Muslim Clerics, not on a peace-building mission, but to unite together against their (perceived) common enemy - the GLBT community. Sigh. By contrast, the GLBT community itself presented an inspiring model of Israeli society in which Jews, Palestinians, gay and straight people, religious and secular, everyone, whoever they are can coexist peacefully and warmly with one another.

I said our visit was timely - it was in fact the day before the 2007 parade which, I just read online, went ahead in a largely peaceful manner, thank goodness!

The final stop on our tour was to a place called Mavoi Satum. This was also a very very important place to visit. However to explain what they do, I also have to explain a bit about how "marriage" works according to Jewish Law (Halakhah). (Readers who already know, never mind!). But now it's kind of late and this posting is already kind of long, so it's going to have to wait for another time I think.....

Jen, this is 4 u!

Kibbutz life

So, months and months ago when I started telling people in NZ I was coming to Israel, at least half of the time people asked "Oh, are you going on a kibbutz?". And I would explain that no, I was going on a study-and-volunteering programme called WUJS, in a small town in the desert, etc etc.

However this past weekend, we did have a kibbutz experience - of sorts. We were lucky enough to spend a few days at the beautiful Kibbutz Ketura, deep in the southern Arava desert valley. But if you've start picturing me out picking dates or mucking out cowsheds, I'm afraid I'll have to disabuse you of that imagery. Our Kibbutz stay was purely educational. We did have to get up super-super early, but not to attend to agricultural matters. Instead, we had a Friday morning Desert Arts workshop. There were three options: Desert photography, Desert Painting, and Desert Midrash. I chose painting - over the last few months I have become deeply enamoured of the desert, and have been heard to lament on more than one occasion that I haven't any paints which I might use to feebly attempt to capture some of the indescribably beautiful lights and colours before my eyes. So a few hours with watercolour paints seemed like an opportunity too good to pass up. Unfortunately I remembered almost nothing my mum had ever taught me about working with watercolours, but it was a thoroughly enjoyable experience...



The rest of our time on Kibbutz was very relaxing. Ketura is a religiously pluralist community with "egalitarian" Shabbat services, and it was very nice to experience a Ketura Shabbat. We had ample free time to spend at Ketura's AMAZING swimming pool, and we had a few other activities designed to give us an insight into Kibbutz life (for example, we did a simluated "Kibbutz democracy" exercise in which we debated and voted as "kibbutz members" on real issues that have come up in this or other kibbutzim in the past. Shortly before we left Ketura late Saturday evening, we had a tour around the whole kibbutz, which has an impressive agricultural industry including dates, dairy cows, and a world-leading algae factory! Our final stop was at the cowsheds, where we were lucky enough to discover one of the cows in the process of giving birth! Sadly she was not far advanced enough for us to see the whole birth, and although she was working fairly hard to push it out, we had to leave her with just the two hooves of her calf poking out into the world.

Nahum Goldmann Fellowship Programme

So I am back in Arad after 8 days at the 19th Nahum Goldmann Fellowship Programme. It was a very densely packed week-and-a-bit; filled with seminars and discussion groups from morning to night.

I was thinking about whether I could summarize some of the highlights or content of the Fellowship, but I'm so tired right now I just can't think straight. I had to leave a little bit early, in order to get back to Arad for my WUJS programme, so sadly I am missing the closing banquet tonight :( As is often the case, some of the best moments of the week came about in the social interactions and conversations between Fellows. I have made some new friends, including some awesome Israelis, who I'll definitely be staying in touch with while I'm living in Tel Aviv; and friends from Europe and the USA who I may visit in my post-Israel travels.

The last couple of nights a few of us took to Lake Kinneret (a.k.a The Sea of Galilee) for evening swims and beach bonfires. Every day I was transfixed by the beauty of the lake - the colours of the light and the landscape seemed to change every time I looked. I regret that I was a little slack in terms of taking photos, but since I'll be up there again in a few weeks, I figure there will be more opportunities. And first I have to deal with my photo backlog from the Negev Tiyul and Eilat... time to start some uploading, methinks!

Oy, such a shlep!

Friends and blogfans will already be familiar with my exceptional capacity for fake losing stuff. This week I had my first fake lose since arriving in Israel. As I mentioned in my last posting, I spent a few days in Eilat (the southern tip of Israel), at the very recommendable Beit Haarava hostel (Clean bathrooms, very friendly staff...). On Sunday morning, I was on the bus on my way back to Arad (via Be'er Sheva), only 30 minutes into a 3-4 hour bus trip, when I realised I didn't have my cellphone. Crisis!! But funnily enough, for some strange reason that morning I'd picked up one of the Hostel's card and put it in my pocket. So, putting on my most earnest please-help-me-I'm-from-New-Zealand expression, I borrowed a cellphone from a fellow passenger and called the Hostel. The manager found my phone at the table where I'd had breakfast and then we tried to work out what to do. Two of my WUJy friends were still at the Hostel so we agreed that when they woke up he'd give them the phone and I should call it to arrange a plan. Lucky that I actually knew my own phone number! So the rest of the bus ride I kept calling and calling until I could speak to one of the friends. The phone ended up with Melanie, who I spoke with just as she was boarding the bus to Haifa.

My original plan had been to spend the night in Arad, then go to Tel Aviv in the morning for a meeting regarding my PSJ internship, then to meet a bus at Ben Gurion Airport to be taken up to Kinneret for the Nahum Goldmann Fellowship Programme. But since I was phone-less (and hence practically paralysed) I altered my plans to include a train trip from Tel Aviv to Haifa to pick up the phone, then bussing and taxing to Teveria and Kinneret. So yesterday and the day before, I spent approximately: 8.5 hours on buses, 1 hour on a train, and 1 hour in taxis. I have travelled so much of Israel in two days!

From this experience I have learned several things. 1) Once again, Israel is SMALL! 2) The please-help-me-I'm-from-New-Zealand face really works 3) Things always work out OK, and 4)Of all the things you can fake-lose, a cellphone is perhaps not the most important (c.f. wallet, passport), but is certainly one of the most logistically inconvenient things to organise to get back! How do you even arrange a place to meet with someone when you don't have a phone?? And how on EARTH did people get by when travelling in the past??